I was a pattern tester for the first time and what better garment to test for than a beaut like the Jenna dress. This is the new pattern from By Hand London and it has two views. I decided to test the scoop neckline version – I just love the square neckline and the sleeve bow detail too much. The other version is also very interesting for an autumn/winter version, so I will probably be making that one later in the year as well.

I used this strawberry fabric I got in Vietnam a bit over a year ago. It is a light cotton fabric, so not as floaty as viscose is, which is why the bias cut skirt looks more structured. If I make it again (and I just might) I will use a floatier fabric to really give the skirt its power of swishiness.

The bodice is lined and I decided to line it in the same fabric to really make use out of it as much as I could. Also, as it is a spring/summer dress I knew that having a light cotton fabric against my skin would be much better than any lining fabric I had on hand in my stash.

The sleeves from this view are so so beautiful and my favourite detail. The bow gives it a special vibe and it is so easy to construct. I had a bit of a movement restriction with the muslin, so for the final version, I decided to grade the seam allowance from the top (shoulder) from regular 15 mm SA to 5 mm at the bottom (armpit). This helped a lot and my hands can cheerfully go up and down as they please. I always use my hands while talking as a proper south European, so that really helps.

I made the dress in the smallest size which fits perfectly. I choose the size based on the finished garment measurements, which is always a great indicator on the right size. I saw that the bust finished measurement was bigger than what I can fill so SBA (small bust adjustment) came to the rescue. I went on the By Hand London blog and found their posts for SBA from earlier patterns and applied it for Jenna. This worked out like a dream and the fit is spot on. I have enough ease to breathe and yet there is no gaping or access fabric where I do not want it.

Overall, I really like this dress pattern and it can also be hacked into so many different versions which for me is always a plus. I am thinking of a long dress next, I just have to find the right fabric for it.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
Ana
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